The Way Is The Goal

Tag: Photography (Page 4 of 5)

Picking Cherries

Lying in a tree, picking cherries. How wonderful life can be. One day earlier, in Belgrade, I didn’t even know I was going to be in this place as I was trying to hitch out of Serbia, to Macedonia. But there I was, a day before departure to Istanbul, in a cherrytree in the beautiful and extremely relaxed countryside of Serbia.

Before arriving in Istanbul, I had my last stop close to the city Niš, the third largest city in Serbia. I stayed with a family who hosted me through couchsurfing in a nice and self-build house on one of the hills around the city. Staying here turned out to be one of my more distinctive experiences during my four months of traveling.

First of all, I arrived in Niš totally unexpected. In fact I was on my way to Skopje, the capital of Macedonia which is 200 km further south. However, while hitchhiking you surrender yourself to a higher level of randomness and you cannot always arrive at your destination. With over 20 hitchhiking days during these four months, this was nevertheless only the first time.

The road from Belgrade to Niš is only 233 km but it took me ages. I left Belgrade at around 10 as I was dropped by my host at the highway, and I even woke up at 8. I arrived at Niš at six in the afternoon. No more than 30 km per hour, my highest low-speed record.

I thought that Serbia, like all other Balkan countries, would be a great hitchhiking country but it was not. The people are less friendly on the road and there are not many cars driving very far in fact. My first hitch was an old hitchhiker himself who owns a bar. He dropped me at a minor exit, where I had to wait in the burning sun for at least 2 hours for a truck that was bringing me just 20 km further down the highway. But this was the ride I needed.

As a pretty common thing already in the Balkans, the truck-driver dropped me at the highway where I was lucky enough to find a quick ride with an older marijuana smoker driving 60 km per hours. He brought me to a rest-area where after an hour and a half I finally had a ride with a young guy driving a dutch Unilever van towards Niš. So I decided to stay in Niš.

Sometimes you just have to surrender yourself to the moments or the randomness, so I thought. Arriving in NiÅ¡ at six would give me enough time to contact people in that city and since it is not a very popular city, it shouldn’t be very hard to find a host. And who knows what comes up?

I was picked up by my new host several hours later, which gave me enough time to discover some nice elements of the city like the old fortress. Finally I was sitting in a good old Yugo car while we were driving through an old dirt road leading far up the hill some hours before midnight. Where was I going I was thinking for a moment.

But some time later I had a wonderful diner and the next day the couple invited me to their land to pick sherries. And there I was, one day before departure to Istanbul, in a cherrytree in the beautiful and extremely relaxed countryside of Serbia.

The same evening I was introduced to the rest of the family at a birthday party of a new young member of the family, while the whole neighboorhoud came for a visit, and later to the daughters of the family, when they showed me the cosy inner city of Niš. Just like my stay in Belgrade, it was one of my first real distinctive couchsurfing experiences where I was immediately part of the local culture.

Zagreb: City in Transformation

So I have heard the requests. You have seen enough buildings, birds, flowers, abstracts, waterfalls, sunsets and so on. Now it is time for a people-report! “We want to see how a city feels like from the viewpoint of those who live there. We want people-photos!” So I have heard, and so I thought myself too. It is time for something more indept.

Therefore I made a photo-essay about Zagreb, its life from the inside: how the city breathes, how the people think and what is going on over there. I discovered it is very much a city in transformation, a city full of life, with people who are not having it easy but who remain positive and smiling.

You can find a series of photos with the article called “Exploring Cosy Zagreb, a Changing City” at the homepage for JPG Magazine. The list of all photos you can find at my profile. And do not hesitate to leave your feedback, remarks or your comments here.

Urban Exploring in Zagreb

Exploring Zagreb

Sometimes you come to places with a touch of magic. Take Zagreb for instance. Here it feels, above everything, really cosy. It’s a city of one million but it feels as a town with its picturesque medieval center, lively markets and friendliness everywhere. There are no big touristic attractions and not many tourists either, so overcrowded places are hard to find.

There is a lot of beauty in this place but it is also very much a transitional city. Croatia has a war-past and is currently in a process of moving from a post-communist country to a country that mainly based on consumerism. A lot of the city is broken down, houses are waiting to be renovated or to be destroyed. Housing-speculation is very populair which also leaves a lot of space for urban exploration.

Housing speculation is something you can expect, but I was quite shocked to find out that many houses in the direct city center are completely abandoned or stripped with only a facade remaining.

One of the main streets of this city you see here on the left. This street is full with nice terraces and little shops. Directly on the right there is a house with only a facade, then a little park, and yet another abandoned house. This house I entered and what I saw was pretty amazing. It was dusty, old, broken-down, stinky, etc. But in itself as beautifull as it can be (see the photo above).

All Zagreb can hope for is that its beauty will not be sold and transformed into a big shopping mall. Some parts of the old town were destroyed during the communist regime, the question now is whether the other parts will remain the same.

Already the city council has big plans for more designated shopping area and malls in the city. Owners of the houses therefore rather have a rotten house without inhabitants, which can easily be destroyed, then having to renovate their house. Money can buy a lot of destruction apparantly.

I uploaded some more photos on my flickr account. Please find here a slide-show of the photos. Additional ones will be uploaded shortly. A preview of another set of photos on Zagreb, that will accompany a photo-essay, can be found here.

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